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Speedster Internet Resources


The aim of this section of the site is to provide an ever growing list of technical resources available through the Internet to anyyone involved in running or restoring an original Speedster or a replica. See also our useful suppliers section

If you can supply further information on additional internet resources please contact John Mercer. We really value your help in making this a comprehensive resource.


BYGONE ERA - Classic Motoring Accessories
Run by David and Julia Harrison
Phone & Fax 0181 462 0708 (24 hours)


Jester Racing - Fastenings and Specialist Items
25 years experience in classic and race cars
David Buley


Alfa Conversion for Speedster
Detailing the Alfa engine conversion of Richard's Speedster
plus many other relevant bits and pieces.
Richard Olafsson - email: ensrjo@bath.ac.uk


From Anthony Evans - email: ant@poggo.freeserve.co.uk
Porsche Club 24



The 356 registry

The 356 registry should be your first port of call if you want to know all there is to know about original 356s and Speedsters on particular. I urge you to bookmark this site. It is also well worth joining the registry to get the magazine which has regular contributions from Brett Johnson, Vic Skirmants, Ron Roland and the Maestro.


356 Talk

This is the mailing list of the 356 registry.

To join simply e-mail |:356 talk-request@356registry.org: and ask to join

There are dozens of interesting posts on this mailing list every day and to show you how useful it can be I have included some recent extracts below:

 

To: stproctor@CCGATE.HAC.COM,

From: Charlie White <charlie@suncap.com>

Subject: Re: OWNERS MANUAL

There's probably no definitive, absolutely correct answer to this question, but here's an attempt: Your 58 Speedster probably came with a standard "A" owners manual, probably an edition printed sometime in late 1957 or early 1958. There are a number of versions (i.e. printing dates) of the standard "A" owner's manual. Your 58 Speedster........." may".........also have had a "Speedster Supplement", which was a separate little paperback booklet, stapeled, not spiral bound, which covered items specific to the Speedster. It is not clear, and I'm notsure when Porsche started doing this, and/or when they stopped. The "Speedster Supplement" is relatively rare, because (1) there weren't that many printed in the first place, and (2).......as the legend goes.......many owners put their manuals in the door pocket(no glove box), where they got wet and were thrown away............side curtins don't keep water out very well, on Speedsters. There are some other manuals (booklets) that........."may"......... have come with your car: (1) battery booklet, (2) list of dealers worldwide booklet (3) tires booklet (4) etc. etc. etc.

 

From: "Joe Barefoot" <lewdod@cyberhighway.net>

Subject: Fw: "Three-fifty sickness"

This illness is primarily a psyciatriac disorder with a prevalence found in owners of old German sports cars. The pathology definately has features of obsessive/compulsive disorder...patients seem to pay excessive amounts of attention to small details which would normally be viewed as unimportant to a well individual. The disease also has manic features, as those effected seem to exceed their monitary means regularly. Behavior may be viewed as anti-social and has been known to cause marital problems. Apart from the obvious mental abberations, affected persons may also exibit certain physical characteristics. One can often identify patients by an unkempt appearance, oil and grease about the body and clothes is common. Dirt under the fingernails is nearly universal, as are multiple contusions and abrasions about the hands, especially the knuckles. Affected individuals have been known to finish one project only to obtain another, thus the cycle repeats. I must conclude that this disorder is cronic and incurible. Fortunately, there are group thearpy sessions held periodically throughout the world!

 

 

Anyone have any experience with Shasta pistons? Curious as to first hand experiences. Good, bad, quiet, power, etc. Full circle rings? Thanks.

I'm using the the Shasta 11.5CR pistons in my track engine. I'm happy with them mainly because they seem to be of high quality and I've had no problems. I've got the cylinders shimmed so that the CR is 10.8. I've put about 2k miles on the engine, some of which has been extremely hard driving at the track with oil temps at very high temps (like off the temp gauge). As far as power goes, who knows how much these particular pistons influence the overall power of the engine. Same as with quietness. Maybe I'll have more to report this winter when I tear down the engine for inspection but so far, I can recommend them.

Steve:

 

Industrial Engines have Cylinders from 84-85.5 mm, which can be bored out to 86mm for the Shasta Piston. NPR's are also 86mm, but sometimes are worn enough that clearances are too large. Measure the Shasta Piston. Measure the Cylinder. Compare. Personally, I prefer boring the Cylinders to fit the pistons. Honing too, of course. And balance the pistons to 0.1 gram if possible. Compression Ratio depends on head volume. CC' cylinder head (all 4 chambers), and give me a call and I'll run the numbers through the Computer Program, tell you how much to shim for what compression you want and predict Net Squish which you should check anyway.

Keep the 356 Faith

Maestro

 

My Tire and Rim Association Year Book states that approved rim widths for 185mm section width tires are 5" - 6.5". The widest acceptable tire on a 4.5" rim is 175mm. 195mm width tires can be used on rims 5 - 7" wide. [You may overstress the sidewall of the tire if you use a 185mm tire on a 4.5" rim. I don't think you want to risk yourself, car, friends this way.] The tire store sales brochures should have recommended tire size fitments for various rim widths. Commonly available tires for the 4.5" rims would be 165R15 (BTW, overall diameter is about 25.4"). For 5.5" rims many people like 195/60R15 tires (overall diameter 24.2" making for 4% lower gearing). If you want wider tires for your 4.5" wheels, try to find a 175/ 70R15 tire (this will lower your gearing only 3% and will look lower profile than a 175/75R15 tire fer instance).

 

I have another slant on the jack finish. I think sand or bead blasting gives a finish that is nice, but not original, which was much smoother natural steel. You could always polish off the beaded finish though. Cadmium plating the springs and such I believe was what the factory used, zinc being slightly too bright and too blue. Cad plating is hard to find (EPA regs)-look in Hemmings or your phone book for platers. An alternative is silver Cad paint, available at Eastwoods--not as durable, but whose going to use the jack anyway?

Rob Green

 

Pete: I recently had a similar problem in a 356 disc brake car. The pads, calipers, hoses and lines were all brand new. The brakes pulled strongly to the left but upon continuous use (actually standing hard on the brakes several times) the problem went away. Upon examination of the wheels I noticed a film of grease all over the rotor on the right side. The problem was a bad wheel seal. I will now tear the right side down and do the washing treatment on the pads, put a new seal in and see what happens. Isn't it fun to continuously take your car apart and putit back together; after a while you get pretty good at it. Thanks for the dishwashing tip, hope the wife doesn't get to upset seeing two nastylittle pads hanging in her dishwasher.

Doug Dutton

 

How many 356s are still running?

Groups like the Old Car Council of Colorado, in this case a collection of the leaders of other car clubs, track suchthings, in part by examining registration records. And I recall seeing a similar compilation in "The Thompson Flyer..." My understanding from my dialogues with groups like this on this subject once yielded a chart that someone had prepaired which showed the then current mean distribution of existing older cars as they aged. The curve starts at 100%, and at about 5 years takes a pretty steep turn downward, and at 10 years the slope is about as bad as it ever gets. At about 15 years the curve begins to flatten, and by 20, it's a gentle drop gradually approaching zero.

Whoever compiled this data broke it into three groups - the overall median, that for "normal" cars, and the third for "special interest" cars. The data I saw was compiled at least as long ago as '85, and maybe it was much older, so the distributions of survivors may have changed. But I was concerned with the 20 year to 30 year range and I remember that special interest cars were at the 5% range at 30 years.

Steve -

 


 

Here are some additional site details - see also our list of useful UK suppliers and our list of overseas suppliers


Concentrates mostly on the newer Porsches including some dreadful water-cooled stuff, but there is some good historical stuff including proper Porsches like the 356. Its clear why the site has won several design awards.

http://porsche-usa.com/


Porsche Restoration Parts

http://www.tweeks.com/restorp.htm


Porsche Machine Shop Services

http://platz.com/machshop.htm


John Abbot - Porsche Newsgroups

A useful reference point for Porsche newsgroups on the web. This looks like a new group but do take a look and make some postings as there's a separate newsgroup just for the 356!

http://www.johnabbot.co.za/news/news.cfm


Porsche Mechanical Parts

http://www.tweeks.com/hardpar.htm


Porscheplatz Mall- Porsche Racing Accessories

http://platz.com/


Porsche Vendor List

http://tridentgroup.com/pca/vendor.htm


Porsche Performance Parts

http://www.automotion.com/


Porsche 356 On-Line Restoration Manual


If you can supply further information on additional internet resources please use our feedback form and we will try to add as much new matrerial as possible to the site. We would really value your help in making this a comprehensive resource.